Sunday, May 8, 2016

Marrakech Favorites and Tips

As a conclusion of my Morocco trip, here are some of my favorite activities and a few tips we collected along the way...

1. Café Clock
I think both Kate and her mom would agree that this was one of our favorite places in Marrakech. Kate initially found Café Clock when researching options for a cooking class. The café describes itself as a “cultural exchange” and operates a restaurant in addition to hosting daily activities such as traditional Moroccan music, cooking classes, and storytelling.

Our cooking class was a ton of fun! Although we had thought there would be other students participating, it ended up being just the three of us with one chef and one translator. They were great and explained each step to us as we prepared our traditional couscous, spicy eggplant dip, and sesame cookies. Before starting to cook, they also took us to a local market to buy some fresh ingredients. When we were finished, they also ate with us, sharing our enormous bowl of couscous. We talked with them about life in Morocco, their families, and studies.

We also ended up going back to the Clock Café a second time to hear the traditional storytelling. There was one older man, who was the featured performer as well as two “apprentice” storytellers who are learning the art and who performed in English. That night for dinner, we tried the café’s famous camel burgers, which were actually pretty good!

Shopping for grains

Our finished couscous

Camel burger

2. Henna Café
Another really cool place we visited was the Henna Café, a cooperative run by women, providing jobs, business skills, and empowerment. We stopped there one afternoon for lunch and enjoyed homemade falafel and hummus. After you finish eating, you can also choose from a menu of henna designs and one of the artists comes to your table. For dessert, we tried several tasty cookies that were made and donated by locals. Delicious!


3. Argan Oil cooperative
One of the main souvenirs we were interested in buying was Moroccan argan oil. Argan oil has become fairly popular in the last several years and is used in hair and skin products. Most of the products available in the US and Europe are either very expensive or only contain a very small amount of actual argan oil.

Close to the Café Clock, there was a small branch of a national women’s cooperative that produces and sells various argan oil products. When we went in, the saleswomen were eager to explain all of the different products and let us test any that we wanted. Between the three of us, we bought some 100% argan oil for hair/skin, some facial masks, and body scrubs. The hair oil is amazing!

A few days later, on our way to Essaouira, our tour bus made a pit stop at another branch of the same cooperative where we could actually see the grueling process needed to extract the oil from the argan nut (repeatedly striking the nut with a rock and then grinding the pits into a paste). We asked the guide if it would not be easier to have this done by machines, and she responded that of course it would be easier, but then they would not be able to employ as many of the local women


Recommendations and Tips for Marrakech

1.Interact with Locals
As I said in the previous post, I think I was able to interact with local people more than any other trip I’ve been on. Before going, I had read a lot of articles and blogs online and it seemed like most people either loved or hated Morocco. I was hoping that we would have a positive experience, and we definitely did. Everyone that we spoke with was very friendly, helpful, and welcoming. They had an obvious pride in their Moroccan culture and were eager to share it with us.

Like I said, we had a great time spending the afternoon with our chef and interpreter at Café Clock and got to hear a lot about their lives and experiences. We had some interesting conversations with several local marketplace sellers and were even invited to have some tea with one of them. Kate had also made arrangements for us to speak with a representative from the local synagogue who told us about the Jewish culture in Marrakech. 

2. Haggle
This one was a bit hard for me to get used to, to be honest. In all of the open-air marketplace stalls, you must haggle with everything! Our guidebooks actually said that the haggling process is part of the rapport building and a seller might actually feel let-down or disappointed if a customer doesn’t haggle. They even recommended throwing in some exaggerated “WOW—that’s way too expensive!” phrases and pretending to walk away.

Although we’re definitely not experts, we usually would begin with about half of the initially-stated price and then work up to meet in the middle with the seller. I don’t know if this is the preferred method, but I think we got some pretty good deals!

3. Dress Modestly
While Morocco is a Muslim country, it’s not required for women visiting to cover their heads. However, it’s important to still be respectful of the local culture and dress on the conservative side. For me, I usually chose a higher neckline, at least elbow length sleeves, and long pants or at least knee-length skirts. Compiling an appropriate wardrobe is actually pretty easy, and most of the clothes I wore in Morocco I would wear in my everyday life. Maxi dresses have also been in style for the past few years, so that’s a great option too. Of course you will still see a few people wearing shorts and tank tops, but dressing modestly will help you to not stick out quite so much as a tourist.

4. Try the local language
While I have to admit that much of my French is stuck way in the back of my brain behind German, I still tried to say merci or shukran (“thank you” in Arabic) as much as possible. Many of the people we interacted with did speak some English, but trying a few words in the local language is a small gesture to show that you value the culture and and people. 

Saturday, April 2, 2016

Marrakech--Guest Post from Kate!

My trusty travel companion, Kate, has written an entry for me recapping our trip to Marrakech. This was one of my most fun trips recently. It was fascinating in so many ways, always something different thing to see, hear, smell, taste, and watch--a total sensory experience. I think we also go to interact a lot more with some local people compared to other trips I've taken. Everyone that we talked with was super friendly, warm, and welcoming. You could tell they were very proud of their Moroccan culture and wanted to share it with us. In my next post, I will list some of my favorite activities and provide some links for more information.  

Thanks for writing, Kate!

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Salaam aleikum, everyone! For those of you who don't know me, I'm Kate. I've known Krista since her freshman year at Pitt, which means she's been putting up with me for nearly a decade now. We spent a lot of time running around Pittsburgh, but we've also had our share of joint travel adventures in the past. There was the time we took a Greyhound to Cleveland. Then there was the time we decided spring break in Quebec was a great idea (pro tip: don't pack a bikini for a trip in March...bring snow pants). There was also the time that I made Krista climb a volcano in Guatemala. She swears it was the worst experience of her life, but I think she should view it as a wonderful experience that allowed her to check several items off her bucket list. 
Chicoutimi, Quebec, 2009


Pacaya Volcano in Guatemala, 2013

When I told Krista that my mom and I were going to be in Marrakech, she readily agreed to join us - as long as I didn't make her climb another volcano. Fortunately for her, there aren't many active volcanoes in Morocco. We rented an apartment near the center of the medina (the walled old city) and booked flights that overlapped in Cologne's airport. After packing our suitcases with sunscreen and granola bars, we set off to enjoy a few days in North Africa.

March is a great time to visit Morocco. It's much warmer and sunnier than back home in Europe and the US Midwest, and it isn't peak tourist season yet. We were able to avoid crowds and increased prices, but we also weren't melting in the desert sun. Marrakech is also pretty easy to get around on foot (make sure you have Google maps on your phone, though, or you'll get lost very easily) and taxis are very cheap. We spent a fair bit of time in Place Jemaa al Fna (the main square), which is full of food stalls, snake charmers, belly dancers, and people selling everything you can imagine. We also explored the souks (markets); stocked up on tea glasses, camel leather slippers, art, and jewelry; got henna on our hands; and met with a member of the shrinking Jewish population.
Place Jemaa al Fna at sunset 


Traditional leather slippers

Celebrating our haggling with some mint tea

Silver tea sets

Falafel and hummus for lunch

Henna

One of the best travel experiences I've had in a while was the cooking class we took at Cafe Clock. The restaurant is in the kasbah neighborhood and describes itself as a cross-cultural cafe. They have cooking classes, traditional storytelling (we also joined them for this event), music nights, and other activities related to Moroccan culture. Krista told me that she was not willing to ride a goat back from the market and then slaughter it for lunch (geez, such a party pooper!), and fortunately, the instructors were more than accommodating. We ended up making a spicy eggplant dip, pureed bean soup, seven vegetable couscous, and citrus sesame cookies. The veggie couscous was served in an enormous dish, and our instructors told us this would serve perhaps three Moroccans. Clearly we need to up our competitive eating training, as we barely made a dent in the food. 





We had to 'fluff' the couscous 3 times during the cooking process.

Bean soup and eggplant dip

Our huge platter of vegetable couscous and amazing teacher/chef, Rashida

Sesame cookies

We ventured out of Marrakech one day and took a bus three hours to the Atlantic coastal town of Essaouira. While this town and its beaches are typically packed with European tourists during high season, it was pretty quiet for our visit. We explored the port, wandered through the narrow streets in the walled town, perused art and souvenirs, and ate pizza overlooking a quiet courtyard while some Moroccan musicians serenaded us below. The long bus ride also provided some gorgeous scenery (and the man-made wonder of goats in a tree), as well as a stop at an argan oil cooperative run by local women. We learned how to retrieve the nut from the center of a fruit, which involves whacking the fruits and shells with stones. I don't think any of us will be considering this as a future career path, as we were quite clumsy and several of the experienced women had bandaged fingers. 
Nearing Essaouira

Khmissa Argan Women's Cooperative 
Traditional harvesting of the argan seeds


Goats in a tree

Essaoira port 


Essaouira






I could go on and on about how lovely Morocco is, but I'll wrap it up here and let Krista's pictures do the rest of the talking.  
A mosque in Marrakech center

Majorelle botanical garden in Marrakech

There were a lot of happy cats at the coast in Essaouira--tons of fresh fish. 

Typical street in the old town in Marrakech

Mint lemonade at Cafe Clock

Dried fruit vendor in the Place Jemaa al Fna

Potholder for the tea pot

Dinner on our first night, overlooking the Place Jemaa al Fna

There were so many intricately decorated doors and mosaic walls. 


Photo Credits: Thanks also to Kate and her mom, Karin, for providing some of the beautiful photos! 

Friday, April 1, 2016

Morocco

In March, I had the chance to visit Africa for the first time on a trip to Morocco with my friend Kate and her mom. We had so much fun and it was really interesting to see someplace so new and different.

Kate has agreed to write a guest post recapping our trip, so for now, I’ll just leave you with a few teaser photos: