Rolling on the Rhine: October 2015

Thursday, October 29, 2015

Museumsnacht Köln

And now back to less serious topics…

Last year, we happened to stumble upon Museumsnacht Köln while we were at the Deutz fall carnival. We agreed that it was definitely something we should do the next time around and we did! On Museum Night, all of the city’s museums are open until 3am and participants only need to buy one pass to be able to visit them all. Some museums also have special exhibits, live music, and food for guests. Although we definitely didn’t stay out until 3am, we did visit 5 (or 6*) museums. I had only been to one of the museums before and was really excited about seeing all the news ones.

1. NS-Dokumentationszentrum EL-DE Haus

This museum is located in the former headquarters of the Gestapo, the Nazi secret police, in Cologne. The upper floors were used as offices and there was a prison in the basement. As you walk through the office rooms, you learn about the progression of the Nazi movement and deportations in Cologne. According to the museum's website, it's one of the largest memorials to the victims of Nazism in Germany. The tour was really fascinating, but most of the artifacts (newspapers, books, letters) were in German, so we weren’t able to read everything.

2. Kölnisches Stadtmuseum

The Stadtmuseum is located across the street from the EL-DE Haus and about two streets away from the Dom. This museum features the entire history of the city of Cologne—from ancient Roman times, through the Middle Ages, to the present day. We got to see some artifacts from the Napoleon era when Cologne was under French rules as well as a display of all of the brands of Kölsch beer glasses. It was a little bit crowded, so we didn’t stay long and hope to go back another time.

3. Domgrabung Köln

As we were on our way from the Stadtmuseum to the next destination, we walked past the Dom and noticed a lot of people going down a set a stairs that I had thought only led to a public bathroom. Upon further investigation, we found out that it was also an entrance to an excavation site under the Dom. Once you go in, you are funneled through winding corridors of old rock walls and really deep pits. There was no information available that night and I can’t seem to find much online either about what exactly we were looking at. From what we can gather, the site where the current Dom sights was also an important area during Roman rule and was the site of another ancient church later on. I think the caves were possibly ruins of both of those. I need to do more investigation though!

4. Römanisch-Germanisch Museum

Next we finally visited the Roman German Museum, which has been on my to-do list for 1.5 years. This is the central location for all of the ancient Roman artifacts locally excavated and the history of Roman rule in Cologne. The museum is huge and I think we say most of it even though we were starting to get tired by this point. Very interesting!

5. Schokolade Museum

The Schokolade Museum was the one museum we accidentally visited last year on Museum Night. As I’ve mentioned before, the actual exhibits are more appropriate for kids, but the café is not to be missed! Unfortunately, the were sold out of chocolate cake by the time we got there and I had to settle for cheesecake.

6.* CityLeaks Parcours

After our dessert, we were exhausted and decided to head home. When we got off the bus at the stop by our apartment, we saw that there was a group of Museum Night volunteers outside of one of the nearby apartment buildings. A few weeks ago, I had noticed that, seemingly overnight, a huge mural had been painted on the side of the apartment building. Apparently, this was part of a program that every two years chooses an apartment building to paint. Very cool!

Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos during the night. I noticed that no one else was taking pictures, so I wondered if this was part of German museum etiquette. I hope to get back to each of the museums later and look at all of the exhibits more in-depth, but Museum Night was a great first taste!

Zu Viele Ausländer?

So far, I’ve kept things pretty light-hearted with my posts and for the most part, our time in Europe has been pretty light-hearted. However, I think it’s important now to address one of the current hot-button issues that Germany is facing and the discussions that are happening here.

As you may already know, in the last several months, Europe has been receiving a huge influx of incoming refugees-- many of them escaping the horrendous situation in Syria. Germany has been at the forefront of this crisis, since many refugees hope to settle here because of the strong economy and high quality of life. While several other European countries have been resistant to receiving the refugees, Germany “opened” its borders and announced they would welcome anyone and everyone, which is estimated to be up to 800,000 asylum-seekers and immigrants this year. 60 Minutes did a really informative piece on this a few weeks ago, which you can watch here(beginning around the 2:20 mark).

Of course, such a political situation will elicit many charged responses, and that has certainly been the case. I would say that the majority of German people are supportive of this initiative and are welcoming the refugees with open arms. They see it as the obvious course of action during a humanitarian crisis and say it would be inhumane to turn their backs on these people in need. It is also a way to bolster the dwindling population and create a new generation of workers to support the economy. The German language course that I took was sponsored by the government and several of my classmates were refugees from Syria, Afghanistan, and Iran. They echoed similar sentiments as those in the 60 minutes video: they love their home country, but could no longer stay due to the danger and want to settle into a normal, working life as soon as possible.

However, there is also a small, but loud opposition to the open immigration policies. These people believe that the generous social welfare system cannot support so many newcomers and worry about the sustainability/ authenticity of the German culture. Unfortunately, there are some groups who have spun these concerns into rather racist and xenophobic rhetoric. Probably the most well-known of these groups, is PEGIDA (“Patriotic Europeans against the Islamization of the West”), which was formed last year in Dresden. PEGIDA has been making the rounds around the country holding demonstrations and trying to gain more representation in the government. Earlier in 2015, they had planned to have a rally in Cologne, directly in front of the Dom. In a poignant response, the cathedral provost had all of the Dom lights turned off, literally and figuratively saying that the church would not stand for, nor shed light on PEGIDA’s stances. The rally ended up being cancelled, in part due to the lack of lighting and because a much larger counter-protest (people protesting PEGIDA) was planned. More information here.

More recently, Cologne made international news again when the leading candidate for mayor (whose current job involves resettling refugees) was stabbed at a campaign rally by a man opposed to immigration. Luckily, she is expected to make a full recovery and won the election while hospitalized. Violence like this is really, really atypical for Germany, so it’s concerning to see someone go to such lengths just to try to prove a point. More information here.

The refugee crisis is a very difficult situation and I think it's hard to come up with a solution that will work for all parties involved. There have been calls for other European countries, the US, and Canada to accept more refugees, to ease some of the burden on Germany. Bill Peduto, the mayor of Pittsburgh, along with mayors of other US cities have publicly pledged to welcome Syrian refugees in their cities.

Will and I have the unique perspective of observing all of this play out as foreigners/immigrants/”Ausländer” ourselves. As a disclaimer, I have to say that we have been treated EXTREMELY well, heartily welcomed, and have not been the victims of any kind of discrimination in Germany. We also live in a neighborhood that is predominately Turkish and has an undeniable international flair. But, it is still a bit uncomfortable for us to read and hear about all of the problems and negative opinions that people have with immigrants arriving. Several times we’ve had to remind friends and colleagues that we also are not German during discussions and debates. Their response is usually that we’re “not the same [as the other immigrants],” presumably due to being of Caucasian and Judeo-Christian descent.

When we moved to Germany, we knew that living in a different culture would give us new perspectives on things, but this was not a way that we had anticipated. I think that it’s good for us, to see things in a new way, and to walk, albeit a stroll and not a marathon, in someone else’s shoes.

Grafitti that reads "Too many foreigners?" in the
subway station in our neighborhood
Photo credit: Ankita

Sunday, October 11, 2015

Abu Dhabi

Since we just couldn’t get enough of the heat in Germany, we decided to book our fall trip to…a desert! Abu Dhabi, in the United Arab Emirates, to be a bit more exact. We weren’t exactly sure what Abu Dhabi would be like, but we were definitely blown away. We initially picked this destination because Will’s affinity for travel blogs helped us to figure out a way to redeem frequent flier miles for the chance to ride on Ethiad Airways A380 double decker plane and experience their new first class “apartments,” which take up a good portion of the top level of the plane. They were beautiful!

One of our first activities in Abu Dhabi was a “desert safari.” Our driver picked up our group in a big SUV and drove about an hour outside of the city. After riding up and down the sand dunes, we visited a camel farm and then ended the night with an outdoor dinner and some fun activities like belly dancing and henna painting.

Just an example of what we ate: lots of rice, spicy meat, and amazing hummus

Although we didn’t get the chance to spend a lot of time in the more well-known UAE city of Dubai, but we did take a day trip by bus. While we were there, we visited one of the famous and HUGE shopping malls and went to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world.

View from the Burj Khalifa

Don't let all those smiles fool you...it was HOT. I think it topped out at 108 degrees, but it was well over 100 every day. We had to limit our time outside to only necessary transit: hotel to pool, hotel to taxi to mall, etc. I assume this is why malls are so popular and large there!

We tried the ocean once, but it was like bath water...better to stick with the pool!

Our hotel on the right

View from our hotel

3 floors inside a mall

The fanciest Starbucks I've ever seen

On our last day, we visited the Emirates Palace, one of the most luxurious hotels in Abu Dhabi, and had lunch in their cafe. For dessert, we split a piece of their famous chocolate cake with gold flakes.

After lunch, we took a taxi to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, about a twenty minute drive from our hotel. I have been to a lot of interesting places, but I have to say that this was probably one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Sheikh Zayed was elected as UAE's first president in 1971 after working to unite the seven previously independent Emirates into one country. As his legacy, he wanted to have this mosque built as a religious and cultural symbol of the country, where people of all faiths could come together to find inspiration and common ground. Unfortunately, Sheikh Zayed passed away before the completion of the mosque. We visited in the late afternoon, so we were able to get pictures both before and during the sunset. I have so many gorgeous photos, it's hard to choose just a few!

View from outside

View from inside the walls

Inside hall

Mosaic wall tiles

Dog Days of Summer

I know that it seems silly to be talking about summer when we’re now deep into sweater and pumpkin spice latte season, but things have been so busy around here that I’ve gotten a bit behind. I don’t remember the summer of 2014 being too bad in Cologne, but this summer was actually record breaking! Read here.

I believe the hottest time was the weekend around the 4^th of July when it reached 100+ degree Fahrenheit and there were several other weeks where it was well into the 90s. What made this really unbearable is that air conditioning is not very common. We have no air conditioning in our apartment (although luckily it says fairly cool) and none in my office at work. The absolute worst, though, is public transportation. There isn’t any air conditioning on busses or subways and for some reason, people don’t even like to open the window. Passengers will pack into a completely full bus on a 90 degree day and have no ventilation at all! I have yet to reach a point in my integration process where I understand this phenomenon, so there were a few days where I opted to walk instead of ride the bus.

Luckily, we’re well beyond the dog days of summer and have been enjoying seasonable fall temperatures as of late. We change the clocks at the end of this month and then we’ll hunker down for the dark winter. Until then, here's one last look at the summertime.